Washington, DC presidential tour

From churches to chop suey, youÕll find bits of Presidential history in every corner of Washington, D.C.

By Timothy C. Greenleaf

Read through the entire text below, or visit the "Inside the White House" feature on National Geographic Online to view it in the original context. (November 1996)

Blair House
1651 Pennsylvania Avenue N.W.; unpublished number
Built in 1824, this townhouse was later home to Montgomery Blair, the lawyer who represented Dred Scott in a case that became a focal point in the slavery issue and, ultimately, led to the Civil War. Here Robert E. Lee was offered command of the Union Army, which he turned down in favor of the Confederate forces. In 1950-52, during the White House renovation, President Truman narrowly escaped an assassination attempt by Puerto Rican nationalists. Blair House, which is across the street from the White House, has been the official Presidential guest house since 1943. The house is not open to the public, but there are interesting plaques describing the Truman episode.

Congressional Cemetery
1801 E Street S.E.; phone: +1 202 543 0539
This is one of the least known but most historically significant cemeteries in the United States. Presidents John Quincy Adams, William Henry Harrison, and Zachary Taylor were temporarly interred in holding vaults here while waiting to be moved to their final resting places. Among those buried here: John Phillip Souza, the prolific composer and leader of the Marine Corps Band; Matthew Brady, the civil war photographer; and Belva Lockwood, the first woman ever nominated for President. Although neither she nor any other woman could vote in 1884, her candidacy for the National Equal Rights Party garnered 4,000 votes.

FordÕs Theatre
5ll 10th Street N.W.; phone: +1 202 426 6924
John Wilkes Booth shot Abraham Lincoln here during a performance of ñOur American Cousinî on April 14, 1865. National Park Service rangers give interpretive talks about the assassination and the history of the theater. The building, inside and out, has been restored to look pretty much as it did 130 years ago. A small museum in the basement features the clothes Lincoln wore the night he died, the derringer used by Booth, and a small notebook kept by the assassin.

Go-LoÕs Restaurant
604 H Street N.W.; phone: +1 202 347 4656
Why does it seem like Chinese food is associated with planning coups? (See Yenching Palace). Long before Go-LoÕs, this building was Mary SurratÕs boarding house, where John Wilkes Booth and company conspired to assassinate Abraham Lincoln. A plaque on the front of the building commemorates the events.

Jefferson Memorial
The Mall; phone: +1 202 619 7222
On the shore of the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial honors the virtues of the third President. Architect John Russell Pope drew upon JeffersonÕs fondness for Greek architecture when he created the design. Inside, visitors will find a statue of Jefferson and panels with quotations from his writings. Some great views of the White House and, in the spring, of the cherry blossoms can be had from the front steps.

Lincoln Memorial
The Mall; phone: +1 202 619 7222
It took 50 years for the government to decide how to memorialize the President who preserved the Union. In 1912, a Presidential commission decided to use architect Henry BaconÕs plan for a flat-roofed Greek-temple style monument. The 36 columns represent the number of states in the Union at LincolnÕs death. The huge 19-foot (5.8-meter) statue by sculptor Daniel Chester French was carved from 20 blocks of Georgia marble and is considered by many to be one of the worldÕs greatest sculptures. LincolnÕs Gettysburg Address and his second Inaugural Address are engraved on the inside walls.

National Building Museum
401 F Street N.W.; phone: +1 202 272 2448
Built during 1882-87 as the U.S. Pension Building to handle the very large number of American military veterans from the Civil War, the structure has a great hall with some of the tallest Corinthian columns in the world. Thirteen Inaugural balls have been held here. The building now commemorates American architecture and the building arts.

National Portrait Gallery
8th and F Streets N.W.; phone: +1 202 357 2700
Formerly the Patent Office and a military hospital during the Civil War, this is one of the governmentÕs oldest buildings and is now a Smithsonian museum. The building is a beautiful example of 19th-century architecture and decor. Abraham LincolnÕs second Inaugural Ball was held here. The Hall of Presidents, including portraits by preeminent early American artists Gilbert Stuart and John Trumbull, is a highlight of the gallery.

Octagon House
18th Street and New York Avenue N.W.; phone: +1 202 638 3105
This elegant Federal-style house, built in 1799-1801, escaped destruction during the British invasion of Washington in 1814. President Madison and his wife Dolley lived here after the British burned the White House. Curiously, the building is hexagonal in plan and the reason it is called Octagon House is unknown. The American Architectural Federation owns and maintains the building. The historic house also contains a gallery with changing exhibitions on architecture and early American History.

Peterson House
516 10th Street N.W.; phone: +1 202 426 6830
This is the house to which President Lincoln was carried after the shooting. The bedroom in which he died is furnished with period furniture and features pillows stained with LincolnÕs blood. When Lincoln was brought across the street, he had to be positioned diagonally across the bed because of his 6-foot-4-inch (1.93-meter) height. The house, built in 1849, is now managed by the National Park Service and has changed little since the event that brought it fame.

St. JohnÕs Church
16th and H Streets N.W.; phone: +1 202 347 8766
This Lafayette Square landmark was designed in 1815 by Benjamin Latrobe, who also modified the original plans for the White House. It is sometimes referred to as the ñChurch of the Presidentsî because every President since Madison has attended services here. (President Kennedy was Catholic, so he attended but didnÕt actually participate). The bell was molded from a British cannon captured during the War of 1812.

St. MatthewÕs Cathedral
1725 Rhode Island Avenue N.W.; phone: +1 202 347 3215
This excellent example of Renaissance-style architecture contains a white marble altar with colored floral insets similar to those found in the Taj Mahal. Glass windows, frescoes, and mosaics are the work of French and Italian craftspeople. President KennedyÕs funeral was held here on November 25, 1963. Free guided tours available.

Theodore Roosevelt Island
Potomac River Many visitors to Washington, D.C., are surprised to find a large wilderness island in the middle of the Potomac River. ItÕs a fitting tribute to Theodore Roosevelt, commemorating his love of the outdoors and the many steps he took to preserve AmericaÕs scenic wilderness areas. Known as Theodore Roosevelt Island, this 88-acre (35-hectare) tract lies between the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts and the Rosslyn area of Arlington, Virginia. Most of the island is undeveloped, and there are several hiking trails that provide pleasant walks. The island is reached by a short footbridge from the Virginia side of the river.

Union Station
Massachusetts and Delaware Avenues N.E.; phone: +1 202 371 9441
This monumental beaux arts style building was completed in 1908 and restored in 1988 after years of neglect. The Great Hall and the East Hall have high vaulted ceilings and are sometimes still used for Inaugural Balls. The West Hall now harbors a cache of great shops, and the basement offers a large food court. And, with Amtrak and the Metro, itÕs still a busy train station.

U.S. Capitol
The Mall; phone: +1 202 225 6827
At the other end of Pennsylvania Avenue, the Capitol is rich in Presidential history. The last three inaugurations have been held on the West Lawn; previously, most were held on the East Lawn. Each January, the State of the Union address is given in House of Representatives. John Quincy Adams, who served in the House after his Presidency, collapsed and died in Statuary Hall. And a tomb designed for George Washington sits underneath the Rotunda. His family insisted that he be buried at Mount Vernon, so the crypt lies empty.

Washington Hilton
1919 Connecticut Avenue N.W.; phone: +1 202 483 3000
In March 1981 John Hinckley shot four people, including President Reagan, in an attempt to impress actress Jodie Foster. There is really nothing to see here, but the surrounding neighborhoods are worth exploring: Dupont Circle, for its lively arts scene, and Adams-Morgan, for its diverse population.

Washington Monument
The Mall; phone: +1 202 619 7222
Construction was started in 1848, but lagged due to the lack of funds and because of the Civil War. In 1876, after a 20-year work stoppage, Congress designated U.S. $200,000 to finish the then 150-foot (46-meter) high monument. Finally, in 1884, the obelisk was capped with an 8-inch pyramid made from aluminum (which was a precious metal at the time). When the structure was first finished, the steam-powered elevator was deemed too dangerous for women, so they had to climb the 898 steps to the top while their male counterparts made the trip in relative luxury.

Washington National Cathedral
Massachusetts and Wisconsin Avenues N.W.;
phone: +1 202 537 6200 or +1 202 364 6616 for recorded information)
An Episcopal church, the National Cathedral has no congregation and it ñseeks to serve the nation as a house of prayer for all people.î The Gothic structure, the sixth largest cathedral in the world, was started in 1907 and completed in 1990. President Woodrow Wilson and his wife are buried in the cathedral, the only chief executive interred in Washington, D.C. Unique 20th-century touches, such as a stained-glass window commemorating the flight of Apollo 11 and a Darth Vader gargoyle in one of the towers, give the cathedral a distinctly American feel. Concerts, organ recitals, and choral performances are given frequently.

Watergate
Juarez Circle N.W.
These high-rise apartment buildings in the fashionable Foggy Bottom neighborhood were made famous by operatives of Richard NixonÕs 1972 reelection campaign. The complex also houses shops and cafes. If youÕd like to eavesdrop on history, check out the Nixon Watergate tapes at the National Archive facility in College Park, Maryland. Call +1 301 713 6950 for information.

The White House
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue N.W.; phone: +1 202 456 2200
John Adams and every President since lived in the Executive Mansion. The White House was rebuilt after being burned by the British in 1814, and several Presidents played significant roles in its modernization during the 19th-century. Central heating was introduced by President Van Buren. James Polk introduced gas lighting. Andrew Johnson installed plumbing for running water. Rutherford Hayes brought in a typewriter and the most advanced telephone of the time. The first elevator was put in place by James Garfield. And Benjamin Harrison was responsible for the first electric lighting in the building. Throughout our history, the White House has demonstrated to the nation how science and engineering can improve living conditions.

Woodrow Wilson House
2340 S Street N.W.; phone: +1 202 387 4062
This Georgian Revival house served as ex-President WilsonÕs home from 1921 until his death in 1924. Mrs. Wilson stayed until her death in 1961, and then bequeathed it intact to the National Trust. Wilson was the sole ex-President to retire in Washington. The house is the only Presidential museum in Washington, and it is filled with memorabilia of WilsonÕs career as well as the furnishings of a 1920s upper-middle class American family. Guided tours. Admission charge.

Yenching Palace
3524 Connecticut Avenue N.W.; phone: +1 202 362 8200
The art deco neon facade of this Cleveland Park institution looks like a misplaced Charlie Chan movie set. The great food has fueled Washington insiders for many years. According to local folklore, and a newspaper clipping in the restaurant, KennedyÕs operatives and advisors planned the Bay of Pigs invasion here. Across the street is one of the first automobile-oriented shopping centers in the U.S.A., originally built in the 1930s.